April 29, 2020
April 29, 2020
April 29, 2020
Be sure to stop by the Pacific Northwest College of Art this next two weeks to see Chuck Ryan’s @chuckslab display. You saw this PFI scholarship winner show his graduate collection at September’s Fade to Light Show. Now you can see it in the Scholastic Gold Key Exhibit. Chuck’s creations are competing for the Scholastic Art Awards and $10,000! In our view, he is a winner already. His is the only fashion exhibit among the artworks.
A Lake Oswego high school senior, Chuck has been accepted to Parsons in New York and Savannah College of Art and Design in Georgia. Both are offering him full scholarships. He’s thinking about holding out for Central St. Martins in London.
We’ll keep you posted on his decision and his winning ways.
PORTLAND FASHION INSTITUTE EARNS ACCREDITATION FOR ITS FASHION DESIGN PROGRAMS FROM NATIONAL ACCREDITING ORGANIZATION
PORTLAND, Ore. — Portland’s only fashion design school took a new step today. Portland Fashion Institute has been accredited by the Accrediting Council for Continuing Education and Training (ACCET), a statement that the school’s teaching and programs meet rigorous educational standards. PFI is ACCET’s first fashion design school.
“While we have been in business for nearly ten years — first as Portland Sewing then licensed by Oregon as PFI — the ACCET accreditation is a meaningful milestone in the evolution of the school,” said Sharon Blair, PFI’s director. “It validates that we are operating at a level of excellence.
“It gives us great confidence that we have a positive impact the success of Portland’s apparel community and the careers of our students — whether they are here for a single class or for a career.”
In its evaluation process, ACCET noted PFI’s strengths in the quality of its classes and teachers, its connection to the Portland’s apparel companies and its graduation and placement rates.
ACCET accredits continuing education and training programs at more than 214 schools nationwide. It was officially recognized in 1978 by the U.S. Department of Education.
Accreditation means PFI can apply for Title IV eligibility to offer financial aid and grants to its enrolled certificate students.
“Our motto remains ‘#schoolwithoutdebt’,” Blair said. “We plan to remain an affordable option for apparel education.”
PFI with Title IV could accept 529 plans such as Oregon College Savings Plan funds, help foreign students with visas and pursue contracts and affiliations with welfare, rehabilitation, and other workforce development programs.
Its website will soon change from www.portlandfashioninstitute.com to www.pfi.edu
More than 6,000 persons have studied at the school since it opened its doors in April 2010. Most students come for a single class, from beginning sewing to patternmaking to apparel business. Others come to enroll for a career. This will not change.
PFI offers three apparel programs for enrollees: Apparel Design, Apparel Technical Developer and Apparel Entrepreneur. Enrollees have gone on to start clothing lines, open boutiques, take jobs at Portland Opera and Michael Curry Designs and work for area apparel companies from Adidas, Columbia Sportswear and Nike to Bridge & Burn and Duchess Clothiers.
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Let’s be blunt. Fabric shopping in Paris is very expensive.
Count your lucky stars if you live in Portland. There you can get quality fabric at good prices at so many stores: PFI Supply, Mill End, Josephine’s, Bolt, Whole 9 Yards. By the end of our stay in Paris, we were begging for a JoAnn’s. I kid you not.
When I was there studying at L’Ecole des Beaux Arts, we were given a list of stores where we could buy class supplies. Here’s a rundown. One note: Go in mid-January to mid-February or July when French shops are legally allowed to sell items for less than cost and use the word ‘Sale’ or ‘Soldes’ in their windows and ads. Expect long lines.
Marche St. Pierre is in Montmartre district right below Sacre Couer, 18th arrondissement.
Marche St. Pierre is the main drag for fabric. Its looks much like the fabric district in Los Angeles: Sidewalks lined with polyester.
Rue d’Orsel, the main street through the fabric district of Marche St. Pierre.
Two high points: Tissus Reine, a full line of products and quality, though not all of the notions we have here. Tissus Paris, a good variety of silks, though overpriced. For example, a meter of silk habotai (called “pongee” here) sells for 23 euros or $26 versus $18 a yard in the U.S. And that’s on sale.
La Reine, our most-visited fabric store. Solde=Sale
Paris Tissus right below Sacre Couer. Tissus=Fabric. A good place for silk.
Two lesser points: Dreyfus with its five floors of so-so fabric. Maison Blanc where they sell remnants (“coupons” here), 3 meters for 16 euros a meter.
Dreyfus. Big store. Boring fabric at high prices.
Bourse-Sentier business district next to Les Halles shopping center, 2nd arrondissement.
There are smaller stores in the Sentier near the Bourse, Paris’ equivalent of Wall Street. These are supposed to be wholesale, but don’t have wholesale prices. Here we found hat supplies at Ultramod, knitting and embroidering supplies at Le Drogerie and ribbons at Mokuba.
Ultramod hat supplies and trims.
Hidden gems in Passy, 16th arrondisement and Rue du Faubourg St. Honore, 8th arrondisement.
To get the best fabrics, we had to go to Tissus Edre in Passy. Here, I bought two meters of Chanel wool at about 55 euros a meter from the lovely Sophie. We also went to Janssens & Janssens near Rue du Faubourg St. Honore where I bought Chantilly lace for a mother of the groom dress for 95 euros a meter.
Tissus Edre in Passy and its proprietress, Sophie — a special place.
Janssens on rue D’Anjou near the Faubourg when you absolutely must spend a boatload of $$$.
Designers who live in Paris have relationships and can buy from wholesale companies not open to retail customers like us as students. Some of these fabric are milled in Italy. But most are made in China or India, as are most fabrics worldwide today.
But it’s Paris. Why do you need a fabric budget when you are here, in the city of light and fashion?
Spring 2020 collections embraced joy through optimistic bright colors that were met with voluminous silhouettes like the maxi dress. This season many brands moved away from athleisure references, opting instead for casual summer staples. Bermuda shorts were everywhere as a seasonal essential. Good vibes were in the air with a Midsommar theme, featuring eyelet, lace and whimsical florals. Ultralight transparent fabrics and natural materials like raffia were highlighted. Prints took on familiar, yet highly commercial motfis, from polka dots and tropicals to the new animal print du jour — zebra — while cutouts spoke to new erogenous zones. From our friends at Fashion Snoops.
New Urban is a fresh take on minimal utility, which has been strong for the past few seasons and lands at one of the most prevalent themes of Spring 2020. Details such as utility pockets and metal hardware elevate items, which have a decidedly casual look even though tailoring is also factored in. New soft brights bring excitement to an otherwise neutral palette. Key items include jumpsuits, cargo pants and structured blazers. To make this at home, try PFI patterns Roxy Raglan jacket and Avril pants; Casual Jackets + Jeans & Pants classes.
Midsommar is packed full of whimsical, summer fun. Set to a cheery color palette, materials like eyelet stand out on flowing maxi dresses. Floral prints, stripes and lace trim are just as relevant as casual spring sweater dresses. All – white looks make an entrance. To make this at home, try PFI patterns Wrap Dolman top and Boho pants; Jeans & Pants + Classic Shirts classes.
The 80s powers forward. Spring 2020 collections go BIG on shape, with strong tailored shoulders and exaggerated puff sleeves. Other highlights include bright colors, the return of polka dots, minis, ruffles and bubble hems. To make this at home, try PFI pattern Moto jacket; Casual Jackets class.
The notion of joy was featured across all fashion weeks with fun, bold and inherently optimistic colors, which also extended to neons. Bright primary hues include Sunny Yellow, Carrot Orange, Scarlet Red and Lively Green. To make this at home, try PFI pattern Lola dress; Dresses class.
One of the most powerful fashion colors to emerge for Spring 2020 is green. Both lively bright hues and dramatic jade are featured. To make this at home, try PFI pattern Isabella dress; Dresses class.
Shorts make a huge impact in Spring 2020 collections. High waist bermudas are key, while short suits bring a casual sense to tailoring. To make this at home, try PFI pattern Marianne rompers; Jumpsuits & Overalls class.
Couture-like volume was a big takeaway for Spring 2020. One of the most commercial ways to apply it is through sweeping maxi dresses. Bold color and print applications stand out. To make this at home, try PFI pattern Julia dress; Knits class.
Animal prints remain strong throughout Spring 2020 collections, with zebra as the most forward direction. To make this at home, try PFI pattern Warhol Trench Coat; Jacket class.
With a nod to the 80s, polka dots are a favorite in Spring collections. Mini and oversized scales are featured on a variety of items. To make this at home, try PFI pattern Donna dress; Couture Dress class
The J.Lo jungle dress moment defined Spring 2020, with a variety of vacation-ready lush tropical patterns. To make this at home, try PFI pattern Morgan Wrap dress; Dresses class
From gauzy netting to super fine macrame, transperancy is a key material focus. A number of European designers explored these aerated materials, bringing a sporty perspective to vacation-ready fits with embroidered overlays or fringe effects. To make this at home, try PFI pattern Bianca dress; Couture Dress class.
From basket woven raffia to macrame filaments, natural materials ruled runways. Designers opted for flexible fronds that were easily manipulated into full looks or intricate detailing. From Liza Rietz’ Innovative Design class, Dieter Vlasich’s straw dress.
Cutouts remain as one of the most popular design details, with a focus on new placements. Cutout sides and shoulders are highlighted, while new circular cutouts are a forward direction. To make this at home, try PFI pattern Baby Jane top & tunic; Knits class.
Next up: Trends in sustainability
Portland deserves to be a center for the apparel industry.
“Our city is known nationwide for its fashion,” says Sharon Blair, director for Portland Fashion Institute. “We want our apparel designers to continue that image, to express themselves and have fun. But we also want them to make money and stay in business.”
“It’s no fun to go broke.”
To meet that challenge, PFI today announced the launch of a business class series for apparel start-ups. All are taught by industry experts from top companies such as Nike and Wieden + Kennedy. The series leads with talks from the Oregonian’s former fashion editor Vivian McInerny and famed local designer and Project Runwaywinner Michelle Lesniak.
“We have an exciting group of speakers willing to share what they know and help others succeed, Blair says”
Classes take place Saturdays, 10 am-1 pm starting September 14. The series of 11 classes costs $680 or $65/class. This business series takes place only in Fall.
“No where else can you get this caliber of instruction for such an accessible price,” Blair says. “Our hashtag is #schoolwithoutdebt.”
Blair adds that the classes are for everybody. “Half our students are here for one or two classes. The rest are here for a career. These classes are useful whether you start your own business or want work for one of Portland’s 25 apparel manufacturers.”
The list of classes Includes:
— September 14. Start an Apparel Business with McInerny and Blair.
— September 21. Fashion Forecasting with Lesniak.
— September 28. PR Secrets. Kim Bedwell, FLM Harvest Public Relations sr vice-president
— October 5. Excel for Apparel Professionals, Dana Ditto, Nike materials mgr
— October 12. Costing & Pricing. Dana Ditto, Nike
— October 19. Sourcing 101. Dana Ditto, Nike
— October 26. Contracting Basics. Owen Schmidt, contracts attorney
— November 2. Working with Production. Jason Calderon, West Daily designer & S Group sr product developer
— November 9. Working with Boutiques & Buyers. Celeste Sipes, Thunderpants USA owner and former owner of Radish Underground boutique
— November 16. Truth about Trade Shows. Jason Calderon, West Daily & S Group
— November 23. Social Media Marketing. Rebecca Russell, Wieden + Kennedy social media strategist
PFI places 100 percent of its career school graduates in the apparel industry with jobs at companies such as Adidas, Nike, Columbia Sportswear, Bridge & Burn and Kroger Corp.
PFI is an Oregon licensed fashion design school that aims to be the “best education center for apparel in the United States.” It celebrates its 10th anniversary in 2020.
1 – Place zipper stop at bottom of opening so excess is at top. Sew zipper.
2 – Unzip zipper below waistline.
3 & 4 – Sew forward and back through teeth on each side of zipper (don’t worry; this won’t hurt your needle).
5 – Make sure your new “stop” actually stops zipper.
6 & 7 – Cut excess zipper tape