Turn off FB news feed & Twitter. Shun FB hate groups & cults. Believe only in trusted, verified sources — such as Mme. Bridget. As one of the last members of the Mme. Grès atelier, she taught me how to create Grès pleats. Here are 7 easy steps to make them.

1. Cover the right side of the mannequin’s bodice with paper.

• Line up two layers of silk organza over the pattern for one bust. Pin to hold.
• Thread trace the pattern to the silk. Choose an embroidery needle.  Use one strand of contrasting thread.
• Line up the lines of the dart. Join with ¼” running stitches. Choose an embroidery needle.  Use one strand of matching thread.  Start at the dart point.
• Trim the dart down to ¾”. Press down.
• Place the organza on the form. Match the CF and breast point.  Pin in several places to hold in place.

2. Fold a 24” piece of ½”-wide rayon or silk fabric in half lengthwise.Press.

• Start 2” beyond the CF point. Place the fold of the ribbon along the upper thread traced line.  Pin every 2”.  Continue until 2” beyond the SS.
• Repeat for the bottom thread traced line. Make sure the binding pieces cross exactly at the CF point.
• Join the binding to the organza with ¼” running stitches at the top and bottom of the long edge of each binding. Use one strand of matching thread.

3. Press a 24”x24” square of silk jersey.

• Mark the center of the crossgrain with pins.
• Start 1 cm from one side at the center. Place a pin exactly at every 3 cm.
• Start with the 2^nd Bring each pin up to make a pleat.  Expose 2 mm of the previous pleat.  Remove previous pins as you fold.  Place a pin on the edge of each pleat.
• Pick stitch the pleats in place along the centerline. Catch just a thread of the pleat fold as you stitch.  Make the underside as clean as the outside.

The first three steps should take you about 2 hours.

4. Place the centerline on a straight line from the CF to the breast point.

• Pin each pleat onto this line.
• Start with the top half beyond the centerline. Fold under 3/8” of the top edge.  Gently stretch as you place it to hide the top edge of the binding fold.  Pin every 2”.
• Place each pleat for the top. Make sure to stay on grain and leave only 2 mm of the previous pleat showing.  Keep the pleats smooth.  Stretch as you place.  Crowd the pleat as they approach the SS.
• You should have only 3/8” fabric overlapping the centerline from bust point to SS.

This step should take you about 4 hours.

5. Repeat for the bottom half of the fabric.

• Fold under the remaining 3/8” of the bottom edge of the fabric to cover the bottom edge of the binding fold.

This step should take you about 4 hours.

6. Chose a 1” fine curved needle.Use one strand of matching thread.  Start with the top half.  Backstitch two layers of pleats at a time.  Work from SS to CF. Be sure not to stitch through the paper.

This step should take you about 4 hours.

7. Repeat for the bottom half of the fabric.

This step should take you about 4 hours.

Congratulations!  After 18 hours, you have completely one breast section of a Mme. Gres dress.  Now proceed to the other breast.  Then drape the rest of the garment.